Overland to AMR: Riders’ Journey to Morocco
There’s a lot of conversation in the bikepacking community about how we can reduce our impact and move through the world more sustainably. Overland travel is one of the clearest answers, but it’s not always an easy one.
Time, cost, and logistics can all be real barriers. And for many riders, flying is the only viable option to take part in a race like the Atlas Mountain Race. But for those who can travel overland, we want to help show what’s possible.
Morocco is more accessible than many might expect — connected to Europe and the UK by railways, ferries, buses, and roads. Some riders even choose to pedal all the way. In this piece, we’re sharing the stories of a handful of riders who made the journey to AMR without flying. They share their motivations, walk us through their routes, the resources they leaned on, the challenges they encountered, and the richness of the experience.
If you’re dreaming of racing Atlas Mountain Race in 2026, perhaps this piece will inspire you to take your own overland journey, or at the very least, show you what’s possible.
Photo Credit: Stephen Shelesky
Carlotta Schumacher
Why travel overland?
When I decided to apply for AMR, it was clear to me that I wouldn't expand my privilege by traveling by plane, because then the environment has to face the consequences of my journey.
Flying is cheap, comfortable, and quick, but nobody cares about the emissions and the real consequences. It’s an incredible privilege to participate in a race in Morocco, but you should think about the way you get there. Is it really necessary to race in Africa, so far away?
As cyclists, we are so close to nature during the AMR—we make sure not to leave garbage, we respect the landscape—but then not being ready to respect the environment in how we travel seems ignorant.
Route and modes of transportation
I used my bike and a ferry. I started in Germany, crossed the Black Forest, then cycled along the Rhône Valley to the Mediterranean. I followed the coast until I caught a ferry in Motril. In Morocco, I cycled through Rabat and on to Marrakesh. In total, it took me 17 days of riding and about 3,400 kilometers.
Planning
I hate planning, so I didn’t do it. I asked a random guy on Instagram who was cycling to South Africa for route advice. Komoot split the route into 17 pieces, and I just started—two days after mapping it out.
On the way, I used Warm Showers to find friendly hosts. That helped not only with saving money (since I didn’t want to sleep outside in -5°C to -10°C) but also for social contact and motivation.
Biggest challenges and highlights
The cold was the hardest part—frozen water bottles, ice on the cycle paths, cycling five hours in darkness. But the hardest challenge was simply enduring: when motivation was low, I ate some sweets and thought about the kind people I met.
Highlights included reaching the Mediterranean and Atlantic and a recovery day in Spain spent in the middle of an orange plantation.
Advice
Take it as a fun challenge—if something doesn’t go as planned, you’ll have a story to tell. You miss so much when you fly: culture, landscapes, and the journey itself. Cycling to the start was the perfect training for AMR—it built my endurance, motivation, time management, and organization. One of the best decisions of my life.
Photo credit: Lloyd Wright
Andrew Phillips
Why travel overland?
I haven’t flown for a few years now for environmental reasons; we can all see that the climate crisis is very real and already having hugely detrimental effects on the landscapes we ride through, as well as on some of the world’s poorest people. I try to talk about the fact I don’t fly, to show other people that it’s not only possible but also much more interesting and fulfilling to travel flight-free.
Route and modes of transportation
I took the train to Southern France, then the ferry from Sete (near Montpellier) to Nador near the Algerian border. From there I spent three weeks touring (plus a few buses) en route to Marrakech. I work remotely, so a few days a week will just stay in the same place and get some work done.
Planning and resources
Because I’ve been doing this for a few years, I’ve built a pretty good mental map of European travel links, and this was my second year travelling to AMR overland. But I’d recommend The Man in Seat 61 as a great resource, Trainline for pan-European timetables, and Direct Ferries to find ferry routes. Buying train tickets directly through SNCF in France is great, as you can alter them and even resell them if your plans change.
Challenges and highlights
Taking bikes on European high-speed trains is always a bit tricky, but once you get used to it is absolutely doable. I have a lightweight, packable bike bag which I carry with me. Some people are put off by the idea of spending 40 hours on a long distance ferry (though this is much less if you take other routes), but I love having the time to decompress and switch off.
Riding along the coast from Nador was amazing, as it’s a really spectacular coastline with almost no tourism, and the kind of place I just wouldn’t have been if it wasn’t for the unusual travel route.
Advice
Absolutely do it. Don’t think about it in comparison to the cost/time of air travel, overland travel is a rich and engaging experience, and watching the landscape go by out of the window gives you a sense of perspective on your journey which you don’t get from air travel.
Photo credit: Nils Laengner
Mark Kowalski
Why travel overland?
For a few years now I’ve taken a “planet-first” approach to my actions. I found a job in renewable energy. I went vegetarian. Now I am minimising flights.
The Transcontinental’s Green Leaderboard was also an inspiration—highlighting the conflict we have as revellers of nature and protectors of it. I figure, there is no one more capable of enjoying slow travel than a cyclist. The journey from A to B is the adventure.
Travelling overland can also make your race faster—when you have a prepaid return ticket.
Route and modes of transportation
You can get from London to Africa in less than 48 hours.
I left Friday, a week before the race, on the 20:01 Eurostar to Gare de Nord (£64), staying at Mercure Gare De Lyon (free with points). I then took the 07:42 Inoui to Barcelona Sants (€79), followed by the 17:00 AVE to Madrid Atocha (€46). After checking in to Latroupe Hostel (€54), I went for a bag-free potter, tucking into some patatas bravas and people watching at the bustling Brillante bocadillo bar.
Sunday was the real test. I departed on the 08:05 Alvia to Algeciras (€24), then caught a local bus to Tarifa (€1.40). Here I met my partner Myrna, who had slow-travelled ahead of me. We had lunch before boarding the 17:00 ferry to Tangier (€35).
The trick here is to put your bags in the hold last, get your passport stamped at the kiosk aboard the boat, then go back to the stairwell to await departure. It still turned out to be a mad dash as we were 45 minutes late. After a 10-minute taxi (€8), and with a minute to spare, we leapt aboard the 19:00 Al Boraq to Marrakech (£45), arriving just after midnight.
In reverse, we stayed overnight in Algeciras and Barcelona.
Planning and resources
The Man in Seat 61, spreadsheets, and my partner Myrna. We’ve become experts in train websites, tight connections, and how far we’re able to walk with luggage. Home Exchange has been a life-changing discovery to break up journeys and explore the continent.
Challenges and highlights
Many trains across Europe do not formally allow bikes. For this to work, you need to completely disassemble your mountain bike.
It was otherwise a lot of pleasant sitting, interrupted by short stints moving myself, the frame, the wheel bag and my rucksack from A to B. I was a man dressed as luggage. I became luggage. My back was a little sore by the end of it.
Advice
Firstly, embrace the mindset that the journey is part of the adventure. If you are able, utilise remote work or extend the trip into a longer adventure. If you need to fly, create a rule where you never fly for only a weekend—longer trips mean less flying overall.
Initial responses I hear are that it takes lots of time and money. My response? So does this sport.
Photo credit: Stephen Shelesky
Ronja Trachsler
Why travel overland?
I generally try to avoid flying whenever possible for ecological reasons. For shorter trips, I believe Switzerland and its neighbouring countries offer so much that I don’t find it necessary to fly elsewhere. But from time to time, experiencing other cultures is incredibly fulfilling—and as we all know, the best way to discover new cultures is by bike!
I was lucky to take two months off work, which sparked the idea of traveling to Morocco in a van and racing AMR. Since I’m new to ultracycling, I don’t think I would have dared to travel this far and take on such a tough race otherwise.
Route and modes of transportation
My friend and I started in Zurich and drove south in his self-built campervan. We spent two weeks climbing in Sardinia before continuing along the Mediterranean coast to Algeciras, Spain, where we took a ferry to Tangier.
We followed the Atlantic coastline, searching for good surf and biking spots before heading inland through the Anti-Atlas and the Atlas Mountains to Marrakech—getting an early taste of the terrain I would soon experience in the race.
Planning and research
Planning was simple—drive down the coast, get to Algeciras, buy a ferry ticket, and hop on board. The main research I did was about cultural differences—how to behave respectfully in Morocco. Talking to travelers and locals helped a lot.
Challenges and highlights
Before the race, I was nervous about cycling solo in an unfamiliar country as a woman. Adjusting to Morocco’s customs and social dynamics was a challenge at first. One of the biggest highlights for me was realizing that I felt almost completely safe. There wasn’t a single moment when I felt threatened.
Advice
If you have the opportunity, take your time. Get to know the culture, give yourself space to interact with locals, and soak in the experience. We already race as fast as possible once the event starts—why not slow down before and after?
Photo credit: Lloyd Wright
Simon Taulelle
Why travel overland?
I think it’s a bit like analog photography—the process may take longer and sometimes be more expensive, but in the end, you get better pictures and more tangible stories to tell. Maybe we should just call this “analog travel”? I once flew to a race and something felt off. It was too fast. Since then I’ve chosen races or adventures that align with overland travel. Taking my time makes the journey itself part of the experience rather than just rushing to the destination. It’s a different mindset—one that feels more meaningful and enjoyable to me.
Route and modes of transportation
To get to Marrakech, I took a 40-hour boat from Marseille to Tangier. I spent some time in the city before taking two trains for an 8-hour journey to Marrakech. For the return trip, I had to adapt, as Morocco isn’t very train-friendly when traveling with a bike. After a few days in Essaouira, I took an overnight bus from Agadir to Tangier to spend some more time in this cool city. Then, I took a ferry from Tangier to Sète. Finally, I caught a train from Sète to Marseille.
Planning and research
I researched alternative routes using ferry and train schedules with apps like Trainline or Ferryhopper. Then, I made my choice by comparing time, cost, and emissions. Planning is key here, as you don’t want your adventure to become unnecessarily complicated, especially before a race like the AMR. The same applies to the return journey as you’re still cooked from the race, so it needs to be as smooth and "easy" as possible.
Challenges and Highlights
The biggest challenge is definitely the cost. Traveling by boat and train is much more expensive than flying, partly because these modes of transport are taxed while aviation isn’t. It’s a bit more complex than that, of course, but you get the idea. It’s an investment in both time and money.
However, the highlights far outweigh the challenges: stunning views from the boat and train, more interaction with people along the way, the chance to explore new cities, and the joy of slowing down to truly experience the journey. Instead of just arriving, I get to experience the transition from one place to another in a much richer way.
Advice
I don’t think it’s about never flying, but rather always checking for alternatives first and making it happen when possible. Studies show that leisure travel is responsible for the majority of aviation’s carbon emissions. According to the European Environmental Agency, flights account for about 3.5% of global CO₂ emissions, with 60-70% coming from leisure trips.
As recreational racers for most of the field, we have the opportunity to rethink the way we travel, and I believe overland travel is part of the answer. It requires more planning, time, and investment, but it can also be an incredibly rewarding experience.
Simon took some amazing images on his trip which you can view below.
Whether by bike, train, ferry, or van, these riders showed that getting to the Atlas Mountain Race can be part of the adventure, not just a means to an end. Overland travel offers space to slow down, connect with the land, and arrive at the start line with a deeper sense of purpose. If you’re considering taking part in the Atlas Mountain Race 2026, perhaps this piece inspired you to take the long way.